Malawi (continued) and then Tanzania.......(by Lindsey)

Last monday we left Fat Monkeys at Cape Maclear and drove up the lake searching for new adventures. We had discovered that the Livingstonia mission was first established at Cape Maclear by Dr Laws (pronounced Raws by Malawians!!) in the late 1800's, but had to move because of malaria deaths. He moved the mission to Old Bandawe, so I was quite keen to see that as well. We found a magnificent spot at Makuzi beach next to old Bandawe, described in the book as a little piece of paradise. It was lovely - Leigh descibed it as like Boulders Beach! We camped on a grassy bank for two nights. We went on a village tour and saw the Tonga people's daily life as well as the old mission. Poor old Dr Laws didn't stay there long either because of the Malaria but the mission is still used as a church and was very interesting. We had dozens of children hanging on to us as we toured the village and they loved the fact that they could see the photos Mark took of them!!

Sorry no pictures but we are having difficulty using our laptop and the photos are on there. Will upload some when we get to Dar-es-Salaam.

Wednesday and Thursday saw us in Inkhata Bay further north on the lakeshore. A very pretty spot, but an even better backpacker lodge. Very vibey, friendly and interesting. We listened to Malawian music, rowed on the lake, and stayed in unique little rooms which are all built on the cliff. The views were spectacular. Unfortunately Leigh got a terrible tummy bug and was laid very low on the second day. I was also feeling rather poorly!!

Off again on Friday to Livingstonia - the final resting place of the mission - on the escarpment to escape the mozzies! We visited the museum and saw Dr (R)aws final home in Africa. Also some David Livingstone memorabilia. I was struck by how the Scottish missionaries had influenced the Malawians so positively. They did much to end the choas and bloodshed caused by the slave trade and raiding Ngonis (yes - related to the Zulus) at the turn of the last century. We stayed the night at the famed Mushroom Farm. This is a campsite with a few structures right on the edge of the escarpment with a magnificent view of Lake Malawi. I bagsed the most luxurious accommodation for us which was a charming mud hut. They are very into Permaculture there but Leigh and I were not so keen on the compost toilet!!

Saturday saw us off to Tanzania and a long drive through the northern Malawian border and then through the southern highlands of Tanzania. It is amazing how you go through the border and there is an immediate change of atmosphere. Northern Malawi is dry and very deforested, Tanzania was suddenly green and full of tea plantations. We reached our first stop in TZ last night and were treated to a fabulous room at the Old Farm House and an even more fabulous three course dinner. Travlling all day again today -- lots of roadworks which slowed us down. Tonight we are in The New Acropol Hotel in Morogoro which is a real surprise. To steal a description from people we met along the way who stayed here before us, it feels like we are in a Hemingway novel!! Tomorrow we are off to Selous National Park, and then on to Dar... will update you then and post pictures.

Just to end some reflections on Africa so far......

Cellular networks have made it into every corner that we have travelled so far. Whatever else people don't have (and many don't have much) they all have access to at least two networks. It makes you think about what can be taken to the people if there is money to be made!!!

Electricity is not so available!!! The deforestation of Africa is frightening...... trees have been chopped down for fuel and for the roaring charcoal making industry. Some countries and places are trying to protect the forests, but others are failing. In Malawi we saw wood and charcoal being bought sold, stolen etc... Really shocking, but people need the fuel.

Bicycles are everywhere. They are used for getting around, as taxis and to carry everything from goats to other bicycles, roofs, doors etc etc. Mark is collecting photos!